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Will You Help Crowdfund Dilijan National Park’s Beautiful New Hiking Map?

Today I’m helping launch a crowdfunding campaign to produce the Republic of Armenia’s first ever 1:25,000-scale topographical hiking map. Will you chip in in exchange for a copy? Click here to visit the IndieGoGo page and make your pledge → And here’s my behind-the-scenes story of how I got involved in the whole thing: A […]

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Transcaucasian Trail

How To Get Involved With The Transcaucasian Trail

This Transcaucasian Trail thing has really snowballed. It’s got to the point where my life as a “self-unemployed creative nomad fuelled by travel and adventure” seems like a distant memory. Weekly blogs? Monthly newsletters? Hah! – you’re kidding, right? During a much-needed bikepacking escape over the winter, and on the advice of a good friend, […]

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Transcaucasian Expedition (2016)

What The Transcaucasian Expedition Achieved This Year – And What’s Coming Next

I’m exhausted. Drained. Overwhelmed. If I knew back in April what I know now, this expedition would have looked very different. This is, of course, exactly what I signed up for… Continue reading at transcaucasian.com »

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Transcaucasian Expedition (2016)

A Day In The Life Of A Trail Scout On The Transcaucasian Expedition

4:45am – Faint, but unmistakeable: the pre-dawn light is growing. Birdsong confirms this. Against my instincts, which tell me to get out of my sleeping bag and burst from the tent to soak up the sunrise, I roll over and go back to sleep. Continue reading at transcaucasian.com »

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Life On The Road

9 Reasons To Make Yerevan Your Next Digital Nomading Basecamp

Given the title of this article, you might be expecting to read a list post designed as clickbait for bored tech startup founders in co-working spaces in Chiang Mai, probably written by an underpaid copywriter who’s never been to Yerevan and has dashed off this piece after an hour or two of Googling. Not quite. […]

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Transcaucasian Expedition (2016) Transcaucasian Trail

Doing It Right: The Politics Of Hiking Trail Development In The Caucasus

When I decided last summer to build the Transcaucasian Trail, I had no idea just what kind of a political mess I was getting myself into. I don’t mean the regional geopolitics of the Caucasus, either. That’s actually pretty clear-cut. Some areas are off-limits, some borders are closed. Thankfully, none of this actually affects a […]

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Transcaucasian Expedition (2016) Transcaucasian Trail

Mestia to Ushguli: Is Svaneti In Danger Of Losing Its Mysticism?

Agendas – hidden or otherwise – seem to play a big part in trail development. Sometimes there is a peace-building motive, knitting together fragmented nations by means of a common travel corridor. More often an effort is framed in terms of the future financial benefits, which usually boils down to a simple equation between more […]

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Transcaucasian Expedition (2016) Transcaucasian Trail

Syunik Province: Southern Armenia’s Most Overlooked Hiking Destination?

Characterised by wild moorlands, terrible roads, and an unintelligible local dialect, the province of Syunik is a large but sparsely populated region at the far end of Armenia, sufficiently far from the capital to have retained its own unique cultural identity. Much like Yorkshire, in fact. Continue reading at transcaucasian.com »

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Transcaucasian Expedition (2016) Transcaucasian Trail

Hitting The Dirt In Armenia: Where The Fun Begins

I’ve been trying desperately to think of a compelling angle for a blog post about the 12 days of driving from London to Yerevan. But the truth of the matter is that a really long drive on good highways does not make for particularly interesting storytelling. This is subjective, of course… Continue reading at transcaucasian.com […]

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Transcaucasian Expedition (2016) Transcaucasian Trail

Announcing The Official Launch Of The Transcaucasian Expedition

It’s with nervous trepidation that I write to you this morning. This feeling is usually a sign that something daunting is coming. That’s very true right now: today marks the ‘official’ launch of my big project for 2016, which I’ve named the Transcaucasian Expedition. (You may see it mentioned in the UK press today, but better […]